This info is old, newer info is below.
1. Trigger and hammer sitting at full cock, trigger is held in that centered position with an internal centering spring.
2. Push trigger forward and hammer drops to half cock and hammer is absolutely locked into that position, cannot be fired. Trigger cannot be moved to full cock and is in an awkward position for normal firing.
3. Pull hammer back to full and trigger centers itself to full cock, release hammer and it stays at full cock.
4. Pull trigger back normally and hammer fires.
After firing, pull hammer back, it resets to full cock, push trigger forward and hammer drops to half cock.
Black tape temporarily holds pins in place.
Newer Info:
Jun/22/2015
I am converting this lock to have a normal half-cock.
This makes the lock more safe and very stable.
Trigger piece is 1/8 inch thick.
Trigger floater is 3/16 inch thick.
Trigger has a fixed pin which fits into a slot in the trigger floater.
This allows the floater to move up or down.
From full-cock, the floater is forced away with the manual pulling of the trigger.
Fired position.
Hammer hook is holding trigger and floater down.
The trigger has a floating half (right side of trigger internally).
Half-cock position.
As the hammer is pulled out, it allows the trigger portion to pop up.
Trigger has moved forward and the full-cock floater is held down.
Full-cock position.
Floater has popped up to hold hammer completely out.
Pulling trigger pushes both of them down and bang!
Finger springs for each trigger piece always tries to push those two parts to full-cock.
Apr/05/2016.
Old ugly iron barrel added, approximately 0.58 cal, 3 grooves as wide as the lands.
Olive wood grip, fits my hand.
I cannot pop a cap in this neighborhood, doing that may bring the local Sheriff around.
Apr/10/2016
The two internal trigger parts.
Apr/11/2016
Range time revealed the plug leaked. A new plug was installed today.
I was shooting buck&ball (00 buck 3 each with a patched .530 round ball). It was loaded similar to a smoothbore using 20ga shotgun wads over the powder and to contain the shot.
Also a correct sized ramrod was needed. One was made from 5/8 inch diameter (cheap) dowel, filed down to fit the bore.
Ready to go back to the range. (it's not 0.61 cal, my mistake)
Apr/12/2016
Blued: Hammer, Hammer Pin, Trigger, Spring Rear Holder.
Stamped a serial number on lower grip metal, "P04022015".
Apr/15/2016
Showing how badly the "approximately 0.58 caliber" barrel is pitted but still shoots.
The muzzle half is the worst, further down the barrel it gets better but not much.
Barrel is 6.25 inches long and the internal useable length is 5.625 inches long.
Apr/22/2016
Range Report, 25yards.
First shot, to the right of the "dot". .53 round-ball, 20gr of Goex FFg, 20ga wads to hold the powder in, leather wad to hold the cloth wrapped round-ball in.
Next three shots, 3 each 00-buckshot, 20gr of Goex FFg, same wads.
Not too bad for a really pitted .58 bore and no sights.
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#6 pellet holes are from that Muley 12ga. 40gr of Goex FFg, 1oz #6 shot, 12ga wads with 12ga overshot wads.
Changed the barrel to .50 cal., 09/07/2017
New stand, wood is Pine and crudely made but functional for several pistols besides this one.
Barrel is a rear piece of a DISC Knight barrel ground down to be somewhat octagonal.
This reduces the front-end weight. Unfired as of today. Some grip improvement on both sides as the Olive wood is very slick.
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