Thursday, October 19, 2017

Spanish Style Miquelet

I have received a parts kit for the lock from Gustavo.

The Parts as received:

Now to decide if it will be a pistol or rifle.

What it should look like: (Photos courtesy of Gustavo)


Comments Welcomed

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Dikar Derringer Philadelphia 45 caliber

Today I found this pistol in a garage sale.  It was put together by a gunsmith but never used.  All parts are already polished, etc.  Now to finish it with stain and "test it".  Only things missing were the two brass escutcheons around the barrel pin. Found those escutcheons, they were in the CCI tin but only 3 screws.

Barrel marked "Dikar Spain - 45 Cal". ser# 228XXX.

Newly blued barrel

Lock innards, shiney!

Three coats of Tru-Oil for starters, natural wood, no stain.

Range Time!


Comments Welcomed

Friday, December 16, 2016

Flinter 12ga

Dec/19/2016:  Lock captive. Trigger Picture.  Happy Anniversary Dear Wife, 29 years!
Dec/20/2016:  Some stock shaping, etc.
Dec/21/2016:  Range Time.
Dec/22/2016:  Various Text Updates.
Dec/27/2017:  First coat of Tru-Oil
Jan/02/2017:  Lock Face
Jan/09/2017:  Here are all three flinters.

Flintlock in 12ga.
Or: 0.73 inch bore.

I started with a 19.5 inch long unchambered 12ga barrel from Numrich.  Belt sanded a portion of the muzzle to simulate an octagonal shape and to reduce weight.  Then draw filed those flats back a bit to the round area.

A short Cherry stock, it may get sent to the woodpile if there isn't enough barrel support and the drop is way too little to see down the barrel correctly.  Later on that one.

Flintlock will be the previous one assembled: Lock No 4


Lock is captive with a single 8-32 stove bolt and copper washer.
The rear of the barrel was notched to clear that lock screw.
Folded and soldered brass (to the barrel) for the front barrel pin.
Coat hanger wire used to pin the barrel, about 3/32 inch diameter.

I need to patch several areas that chipped out around the lock, etc. darned soft Cherry.
There will not be a butt plate.
Since there is not enough stock drop, the cheek area will be scooped.
Remember: This stock is real close to becoming firewood!
I may try a piece of Ash instead.

Single lock screw and copper washer.  Trigger pin is seen too.
Lots of wood to remove.
Trigger guard is next.

Up Close, 1/8 inch pin hole.


Some stock shaping, trigger guard roughed out.  Ugly Stock.
Trigger guard is a full length hobby brass piece of 0.092 inches thick, 0.5 inches wide.
Held on with 4 each #6 0.5 inch long slotted steel screws of which one decided to snap off.

Top View.  Ugly Stock.
Barrel Plug is grade 5 bolt M20 x 2.5 in fairly tight.
Tang is attached with two each 8-32 black Allen screws, I don't have a welder anymore.
The fun part is tapping those two holes, scary.
No front bead sight as yet, someday.


Range Time,  No pictures.
Was able to get 3 shots off as it started raining. ARGH!
I had forgotten my 12ga bag so improvised with rags and 3 each .490 RB's per shot with 60gr of Goex FFg.
The first shot was a dud as the three RB's fell to the ground about 15 feet away.
Out of the next two shots, two balls hit the 24 inch paper target at 25yds.
At least each shot fired.

I was just testing the functionality of this assemblage of parts to see if all of them worked together. :-)

I will probably jug choke this barrel using a brake hone.  Later on that one.


First coat of Tru-Oil


Close up of lock face.
Knobby barrel pin, for quick removal.
I have a spare frizzen for this lock

Frizzen was purchased after the lock was almost done.  That frizzen wasn't the right dimensions for this lock so  the lock face was "modified" to make it work.  This will not happen again.

When the barrel was breached and tested, there was some leakage past the plug threads.  These threads have now been filled with JB-Weld epoxy stuff.  The plug is now semi-permanent.


Here are all three flinters.

Low light android picture, not much picture quality.


Comments: Really Wanted

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Flintlock Lock No 4

Nov/16/2016:  Pan Added
Nov/17/2016:  Bridle Added.
Nov/18/2016:  Main Spring added.
Nov/19/2016:  Main Spring Installed, Hammer too.
Nov/22/2016:  Sear spring, etc.
Nov/23/2016:  Frizzen Spring, not pictured.
Nov/28/2016:  Half-Cock Notch, Top Jaw.
Dec/04/2016:   Frizzen.

I will start with this teaching in mind:

And these images:

1: A general shape.
I like the pan and frizzen, etc.  Not so much on the hammer.

2: A composite shape.
This one I like a lot, especially the hammer.
The forward flat above the frizzen spring will be taller but I'll see as this goes along.

The plate (Right Hand) and the tumbler.  Red lines should be the main spring arc.
A note is that I am in no way as accomplished as these locks are but my attempt is for a functioning lock and all of the learning that this build will bring along.


Pan Added, soldered on, plumbers solder.
Frizzen area not finished.

Red marking pen for checking fit of tumbler.


Bridle, 3 screws.  Needs trimming and "prettying".

Other side.

I was reducing the diameter of the bridle side of the tumbler only to discover (to my horror) that I was reducing the hammer end.  This tumbler is a new one.  Hammer side is 5/16 inch and the bridle side is 1/4 inch diameters.

Saw Blades for $1.00, local garage sale.

I chose this one.  The flat edge is where I cut the material for the main spring.


Main Spring added.

Garage Sale here local, found a 2 inch pile of 6 and 8 inch table saw blades, mostly old.  Bought the pile for $1.00.  Cut a strip from one that looked good and made this spring.  At this stage it's 0.062 inches thick and 3/8 inches wide at the bend.  I may have to: Either move the spring down or Grind it narrower to clear any barrel.

Hammer, obviously not finished.


Main spring in new lower hole, shortened the springs toe.
The bridle needs the standoffs for the two upper screws.

Hammer with a new floor, partly brazed.
That coffin shaped floor mod will get redone to lower the angle of the jaw.
Hammer screw is 6-32 thread, a temporary screw.  Will be changing all screws for the correct lengths.


Sear spring added, at rest. A 4-40 screw holds it down, not visible here but it's under the bridle.
Added the bridle standoffs (spacers) under the two top bridle screws.

While bending the sear leg, it broke off.  Brazed it back together.

Full Cock (only) for now and it works.


Half-Cock Notch.
Top Jaw.
Top jaw is a bit large.

Ordered two frizzens from Old South Firearms.  Not in the mood to make frizzens from 1095 or old files as I don't have a forge or anvil as yet.


Frizzen Added.
New old stock, from Old South Firearms.


Comments Welcomed

Saturday, October 29, 2016

Flinter No2

Oct/29/2016:  Another .22 cal flintlock.
Oct/31/2016:  Hook Breech, touch hole liner.
Nov/03/2016:  Lock, Stock, Barrel, Trigger.
Nov/04/2016:  Lock Mounted, 2 screws.
Nov/06/2016:  Wood scraping.
Nov/08/2016:  Guard Shaping,  Tru-Oil.
Nov/11/2016:  Target Displayed

Jan/25/2017:  Updated Frizzen Face.

A .22 cal flintlock, the beginning.

Charles Kramer ( donated this piece of wood, Thanks!  Guessing that it's Cherry.  Unfortunately it was cracked at the toe, so a piece of cut-away was glued on.  After staining, the color difference may not show.

That new flintlock lock (#3), a 10-22 barrel, and a trigger.
Trigger was cut from a piece of 1/8 inch thick mild steel.
These penciled locations on the stock are approximate.
Barrel will be a hooked breech using angle iron for the stationary piece (not shown).

I would rather have one of those Green Mountain Barrel Blanks in .22 cal. at 1:16 twist, dream on.  They are out of the one I wanted, 8 weeks wait time, ugh.  Or maybe an old Winchester octagonal replacement barrel.

Trigger close up.

Another trigger view,

Oct/31/2016:  Hook Breech, touch hole liner.

Liner: 1/4 x 20 stainless steel allen screw installed backwards.
Threads only deep enough to stop the liner at this position, snugly, then filed flat.

Barrel plug is 3/8 inch x 16 TPI.  Filed down to make a hook.  1 x 3 inch angle iron sliced at 0.9 inches wide.  Tang needs shaping.


Barrel Pinned with a 3/32 inch pin, Hook Breech.
Lock inlet.
Trigger pinned, shortened at the top edge and curled more at the visible tip.
Carving/Shaping the stock started.

Lock Mounting:  Since there is no room or a good position for a "lock through bolt", the lock may get held with two wood screws through the front and rear edges.


Lock Mounted, 2 screws 6-32, in unusual places.  Reason:  No place else to make it work.
Front screw, just visible inside the v-curve of the frizzen spring, not the main spring stud, in front of that stud.
Second screw, where the frizzen spring has a point, to the left of that point.

There is a gap all around the lock plate, it seems that as I worked down for the inlet, the opening enlarged "somehow"!

Other side.  Two screws and the trigger pin.
A cover plate will be next, to cover the side and the trigger pin hole.

A trigger guard will be drawn up and tested for fit around the trigger.

Top View, a bit fuzzy, darned android cameras.
Lots of wood to remove.


Wood scraping

On the bench, but first some shaping

Now some scraping and first coat of Tru-Oil.


Shaping the guard.

All Red , Tru-Oil only, no coloring.


25 yards, 15gr of Goex FFFg, 21gr air-gun pellets, no patch. Primed with Goex FFFg.
Clean after every shot, needed.  Blued the hammer after range time, during cleaning.

I did not expect good results from this kind of barrel (stock 10-22) so in the future (someday) all .22 cal barrels used will be Green Mountain ones.

Looks like 10 shots in 40 minutes or so.  The front sight is about 0.1 inch too tall and a bit to the right so that it shoots left.  The second five shots were aimed to the right a bit (about 1 inch) and that helps.

Before shooting while waiting to put up a target (a public range) I tried several shots at the 100yd berm (dirt bank) and saw the hits right where I aimed, kool!  Saw the dirt go poof!


Updated Frizzen Face.

Metal Materials, old table saw blade.
Here can be seen the JB-Weld squished out of the three rivet holes.


Comments Welcomed