Friday, December 22, 2017

Ugly Muley Innards

More of that Ugly Muley pistol.

Here are the hammer and trigger posed with an alligator setup, as per request. These positions are approximate but should illustrate how the Muley action works, inside of that square tubing frame.

Trigger pull is about 1/2 inch or so. Long but you cannot tell when it is going to break

The grip frame was attached by 2 rivets going clear through the grip frame and the main frame tubing. Then plumbers solder soldered together.
Reason: I do not have a welder or brazer anymore (bummer) Brazing would have eliminated all of that fiddly riveting and soldering.

The hammer and trigger pins are just sitting in the frame, nothing prevents them from moving out and hitting the ground. I suppose they could be made a bit longer and safety-wired in place.

The Frame

Closer, notice the nice rough cutting of that square tubing. Hey, it works fine.:-) Yes, the barrel is soldered to the frame as well as pinning the plug (roll pin).

The Action
Held with the help of alligator clips.

Top views, this is a cocked positioning of parts.The lines on the page below sort of illustrate the alignment to the frame. As the trigger pulls back, there is a sliding of the trigger to hammer surface, I just use some grease.

Another Note:
When the hammer is cocked, it pushes the trigger sideways onto the frame. I made sure that the trigger slot kept the trigger from moving sideways, and more grease. The trigger has that large head to keep it against the frame slot and not pop inside (of the frame) at any time.

Shows the fit of parts, the hammer/trigger gap.

Tilted view. The trigger notch here is really not necessary but I ran out of room for the thing to work, hence the notched trigger.

Trigger spring is an ink pen spring, trimmed to fit, sitting on a brass pin.
EDIT: The brass pin for the spring keeps the spring from folding and also is the trigger stop.

Just another top view, cocked. As the trigger pulls back, the trigger nose disappears below the hammer point, bang!

Actually the trigger is too high here, the trigger pin would be centered (and lower) on the hammer flat. Note the frame hole positions above.

Actually the next three pictures are WRONG, sorry. The trigger should be BACK not FORWARD.
I will re-take the pix and update.

Fired positions here.

Trigger forced forward, all sliding surfaces rounded for smoothness. Not polished just smooth.

Here is where the trigger spring forces the trigger forward as the hammer falls.

Pulling the hammer back to cock it, the hammer and trigger faces are rounded to allow a smooth movement of parts. Funny shapes but for a purpose, nothing squared where parts are touching.

Another view.

Last view

More Pictures

Trigger position within the frame
At rest, fired.

Pulled to fire.


Parts, some blurred, cussed cell phone auto-focus!

Two spring notches for testing of the spring strength. Close to the pivot is weaker, farther out nearest the bend is much sturdier. The inner one is chosen for now is it doesn't bash the nipple too much.

Slightly rounded hammer point, on the bottom side of the point.

Fussy, sorry. Shows the rounded portion of that hammer point.

The spring pin is also the trigger stop.
Rub points can be seen where the trigger rubs the frame at full cock.

Don't remember why that small brass pin is on top. Maybe a movement forward stop.

Comments Welcomed

Thursday, October 19, 2017

Spanish Style Miquelet

I have received a parts kit for the lock from Gustavo Hoefs.

The Parts as received:

Now to decide if it will be a pistol or rifle. (Pistol)

What it should look like: (Photos courtesy of Gustavo)

Not shown is the main spring wedge.

Example: Shows the high trigger pivot location, Thanks to Gustavo.

Example: Gustavo's "Pistol".

Oct/23/2017 Progress

Sear and sear parts mounted.
US 4-40 screws used along with 1/16 inch diameter brass rod for the pivot pins.

It works smoothly.  The sear spring not tempered as yet so I don't play with it much.  Sear spring needs a slight arch to keep it tight to the plates backside.  It was a lot of "fun" fitting the round half cock pin to the plate.

Cock not mounted here.
Frizzen not mounted.  The frizzen spring plate notch is a bit too large so it will be "shrunk" for a tight frizzen spring fit. Frizzen and Main springs will be pinned on the backside of the plate, no screws.

How much those two cocking parts protrude from the plate. They are currently too long.
The round one is half-cock and it has a notch to prevent firing in this position.
The upper shelf is full cock, a part of the sear spring.
As the sear gets pulled back by the high pinned trigger, the half-cock round pin just clears the plate before the full cock shelf moves out of the way. Nice.

The as cast threads on the cock support threaded portion (US 6-32) was not useable, so I plumber soldered it to the plate.
(Sorry Gustavo)
This will impede the installation of the main spring, bummer. I will figure this out later. Maybe tap it for a 4-40 screw from the backside.

Cock at full CW rotation, the foot hits the support. Cock pivot is a temporary black Allen 8-32 this one needs to be a shoulder screw..


Added the frizzen and spring. The spring required a thin brass shim just under the spring base (slot was too large).  Frizzen is not hardened. Frizzen has a foot that limits forward travel. That frizzen spring is really strong.

The half cock pin required a slope on the left side so that the cock can slide over it during any cocking, ditto to the full cock left corner.

French amber flint?


Main Spring slots were too loose, so two pieces of brass were soldered into the slots to rotate the main spring clockwise. Here is one of those brass inserts:  The other one is on the top edge of the right slot.

Now seen are the two brass main spring inserts. And a slice of 5cents for the main spring wedge.

The next item was how to remove the main spring with the cock support permanently attached. I cut a slice of steel rod, D/T 6-32, screwed it to the plate then plumber soldered it. I left half of the internal threads on the slice to allow the support to be attached with another 6-32 screw. Yes, those screws are ugly but it works and the support is removable.

Another item is the frizzen spring. It decided to be twisted and the frizzen is not yet hardened. More work here.

Full cock.

Half cock.

Fired. The cock foot hits the steel block. That block is probably too big here but "file adjustable" as the cock needs to drop more (CW).  Still missing is the pan extension piece which widens the pan and provides a bit of frizzen spring coverage.

Frizzen hardened, toe slightly shortened, frizzen spring straightened.
Frizzen is slightly concave, probably due to the cooling period just after casting.
It sparks.

Stock, Canary Wood (Yellow)
Barrel, 0.50 cal, no plug yet, maybe a hook breech if there is room.

Lock. Stock. Barrel. Trigger.

Very rough stock. Will be cut short about 1/8 inch behind the muzzle.
Lock in but needs more tweaking. Inlet is a bit high.
Barrel is not done.
Trigger (not shown) is a piece of 5/16 inch steel rod pinned right at the cock pivot location in the stock. It has a lot of movement to let the lock fly, about 1/2 inch or so.

One coat of Tru-Oil.
Barrel plugged 5/8-18 and touch hole insert done.
Tang next. Probably will use a barrel band for the front.
Trigger is a bit tall, probably will shorten it or just move it up.
Looking for a trigger guard.
Need to make a trigger plate to guide that trigger and limit it's travel.
This wood has lots of Brown, Orange and Yellow highlights not shown here.

Frizzen re-hardened with Cherry Red compound.
Trigger shortened.
Working on a hooked breach, no pix yet.

Hooked Breech in but not finished.
Trying to decide for a barrel band or pinned barrel.

After 3P.M. - Barrel Band:
Band cut from a large sheet of brass door kick panel.

This lock sparks even with a beat-up French flint.
I put a charge into the pan and lit it off, Yay!

My in-letting isn't so great and this wood tends to splinter, likely excuse. :-)

Single screw mounting.
Here can be seen some of the multi-colors in the wood.
Soldered overlapping ends with plumbers solder.

Nov/11/2017  Veterans, Thanks for your service!

Blued the barrel and other parts. Those two brass dots are scope hole fillers, whatever :-)

Added the  pan piece that decorates only. Temporary 4-40 screw.
I re-hardened the frizzen again, with two doses of "Cherry Red". Left the striking surface full hard and drew back the cover area to prevent breakage.  Better sparks but not necessarily directed to the pan.  The frizzen does not open more than this photo. I would have to grind under the pan to get the frizzen to open more.  I may also open the pan area like a pear shape.

Nov/11/2017: Tested on Nov/12/2017
Enlarged the pan pocket, to the rear only. Compare to above picture.
It now flashes the pan charge, 3 for 3 times, excellent. And with a dull flint, amazing!

Display Stand:

Canary wood base (same piece as the stock).
Garage-Sale antler piece ($1).
Cut butt of antler free for powder measure.
Drill the antler base for a measure. 
Drill base and antler for a single sheet-rock/dry-wall screw at funny angles ( not fun :-).

Then added a 1/4 inch diameter post for the powder measure.
Probably will put a finish on the base of some kind.


Target on Frame at the Range.

First hole left of center in the frame (oh no).
Apparently I was shooting way over the target frame as evidenced by the frame holes.

I went through 20 shots, 30gr of Goex FFFg, tick patch, .490 RB.
Remember: no sights on the pistol. :-)
I count 9 hits on the target frame some on the target, ha ha ha.

I checked the patches, some were cut and some were just fine and re-usable.

Trigger Guard.
Put together on the 17th. with plumbers solder. The rear piece was riveted with a 1/16 inch brass rod piece. The loop is a bit larger than I expected but looks OK.

Inlet today the 18th.
The small area where the branch was took more cutting than I suspected. The branch and the surrounding area was extra hard.
I cannot countersink the front hole (ARGH!) as it's too close to the loop. So maybe a round head screw is proper.

Hand made trigger guard, half-cock, Dove feather in touch hole. Looks to be done. 1/16 inch diameter brass pin for front sight, bent & notched brass sheet for rear sight (behind hammer). Antler 30gr powder measure stored on a post.

I may try to add brass bands in the barrel for looks, maybe.

aka BartSr

Comments Welcomed