Thursday, October 19, 2017

Spanish Style Miquelet

I have received a parts kit for the lock from Gustavo Hoefs.

The Parts as received:



















Now to decide if it will be a pistol or rifle. (Pistol)


What it should look like: (Photos courtesy of Gustavo)

















Example:
Not shown is the main spring wedge.













Example: Shows the high trigger pivot location, Thanks to Gustavo.



















Example: Gustavo's "Pistol".

























Oct/23/2017 Progress

Sear and sear parts mounted.
US 4-40 screws used along with 1/16 inch diameter brass rod for the pivot pins.

It works smoothly.  The sear spring not tempered as yet so I don't play with it much.  Sear spring needs a slight arch to keep it tight to the plates backside.  It was a lot of "fun" fitting the round half cock pin to the plate.

Cock not mounted here.
Frizzen not mounted.  The frizzen spring plate notch is a bit too large so it will be "shrunk" for a tight frizzen spring fit. Frizzen and Main springs will be pinned on the backside of the plate, no screws.













How much those two cocking parts protrude from the plate. They are currently too long.
The round one is half-cock and it has a notch to prevent firing in this position.
The upper shelf is full cock, a part of the sear spring.
As the sear gets pulled back by the high pinned trigger, the half-cock round pin just clears the plate before the full cock shelf moves out of the way. Nice.
























The as cast threads on the cock support threaded portion (US 6-32) was not useable, so I plumber soldered it to the plate.
(Sorry Gustavo)
This will impede the installation of the main spring, bummer. I will figure this out later. Maybe tap it for a 4-40 screw from the backside.





Cock at full CW rotation, the foot hits the support. Cock pivot is a temporary black Allen 8-32 this one needs to be a shoulder screw..





















Oct/24/2017
Progress:

Added the frizzen and spring. The spring required a thin brass shim just under the spring base (slot was too large).  Frizzen is not hardened. Frizzen has a foot that limits forward travel. That frizzen spring is really strong.

The half cock pin required a slope on the left side so that the cock can slide over it during any cocking, ditto to the full cock left corner.

French amber flint?



















Oct/26/2017
Update:

Main Spring slots were too loose, so two pieces of brass were soldered into the slots to rotate the main spring clockwise. Here is one of those brass inserts:  The other one is on the top edge of the right slot.











Now seen are the two brass main spring inserts. And a slice of 5cents for the main spring wedge.



















The next item was how to remove the main spring with the cock support permanently attached. I cut a slice of steel rod, D/T 6-32, screwed it to the plate then plumber soldered it. I left half of the internal threads on the slice to allow the support to be attached with another 6-32 screw. Yes, those screws are ugly but it works and the support is removable.


















Another item is the frizzen spring. It decided to be twisted and the frizzen is not yet hardened. More work here.













Full cock.



















Half cock.



















Fired. The cock foot hits the steel block. That block is probably too big here but "file adjustable" as the cock needs to drop more (CW).  Still missing is the pan extension piece which widens the pan and provides a bit of frizzen spring coverage.






















Oct/27/2017
Frizzen hardened, toe slightly shortened, frizzen spring straightened.
Frizzen is slightly concave, probably due to the cooling period just after casting.
It sparks.















Oct/30/2017
Stock, Canary Wood (Yellow)
Barrel, 0.50 cal, no plug yet, maybe a hook breech if there is room.















Nov/3/2017
Lock. Stock. Barrel. Trigger.

Very rough stock. Will be cut short about 1/8 inch behind the muzzle.
Lock in but needs more tweaking. Inlet is a bit high.
Barrel is not done.
Trigger (not shown) is a piece of 5/16 inch steel rod pinned right at the cock pivot location in the stock. It has a lot of movement to let the lock fly, about 1/2 inch or so.













Nov/4/2017
One coat of Tru-Oil.
Barrel plugged 5/8-18 and touch hole insert done.
Tang next. Probably will use a barrel band for the front.
Trigger is a bit tall, probably will shorten it or just move it up.
Looking for a trigger guard.
Need to make a trigger plate to guide that trigger and limit it's travel.
This wood has lots of Brown, Orange and Yellow highlights not shown here.














Nov/06/2017
Frizzen re-hardened with Cherry Red compound.
Trigger shortened.
Working on a hooked breach, no pix yet.





Nov/07/2017
Hooked Breech in but not finished.
Trying to decide for a barrel band or pinned barrel.











After 3P.M. - Barrel Band:
Band cut from a large sheet of brass door kick panel.

This lock sparks even with a beat-up French flint.
I put a charge into the pan and lit it off, Yay!










My in-letting isn't so great and this wood tends to splinter, likely excuse. :-)












Single screw mounting.
Here can be seen some of the multi-colors in the wood.
Soldered overlapping ends with plumbers solder.
















Nov/11/2017  Veterans, Thanks for your service!

Blued the barrel and other parts. Those two brass dots are scope hole fillers, whatever :-)










Added the  pan piece that decorates only. Temporary 4-40 screw.
I re-hardened the frizzen again, with two doses of "Cherry Red". Left the striking surface full hard and drew back the cover area to prevent breakage.  Better sparks but not necessarily directed to the pan.  The frizzen does not open more than this photo. I would have to grind under the pan to get the frizzen to open more.  I may also open the pan area like a pear shape.

















Nov/11/2017: Tested on Nov/12/2017
Enlarged the pan pocket, to the rear only. Compare to above picture.
It now flashes the pan charge, 3 for 3 times, excellent. And with a dull flint, amazing!



















Nov/13/2017
Display Stand:

Canary wood base (same piece as the stock).
Garage-Sale antler piece ($1).
Cut butt of antler free for powder measure.
Drill the antler base for a measure. 
Drill base and antler for a single sheet-rock/dry-wall screw at funny angles ( not fun :-).













Then added a 1/4 inch diameter post for the powder measure.
Probably will put a finish on the base of some kind.














Nov/16/2017

Target on Frame at the Range.

First hole left of center in the frame (oh no).
Apparently I was shooting way over the target frame as evidenced by the frame holes.

I went through 20 shots, 30gr of Goex FFFg, tick patch, .490 RB.
Remember: no sights on the pistol. :-)
I count 9 hits on the target frame some on the target, ha ha ha.

I checked the patches, some were cut and some were just fine and re-usable.


























Nov/18/2017
Trigger Guard.
Put together on the 17th. with plumbers solder. The rear piece was riveted with a 1/16 inch brass rod piece. The loop is a bit larger than I expected but looks OK.



















Inlet today the 18th.
The small area where the branch was took more cutting than I suspected. The branch and the surrounding area was extra hard.
I cannot countersink the front hole (ARGH!) as it's too close to the loop. So maybe a round head screw is proper.


















Nov/22/2017
Hand made trigger guard, half-cock, Dove feather in touch hole. Looks to be done. 1/16 inch diameter brass pin for front sight, bent & notched brass sheet for rear sight (behind hammer). Antler 30gr powder measure stored on a post.

I may try to add brass bands in the barrel for looks, maybe.

















IdeZilla
aka BartSr

Comments Welcomed



Thursday, October 12, 2017

Dikar Derringer Philadelphia 45 caliber

Today I found this pistol in a garage sale.  It was put together by a gunsmith but never used.  All parts are already polished, etc.  Now to finish it with stain and "test it".  Only things missing were the two brass escutcheons around the barrel pin. Found those escutcheons, they were in the CCI tin but only 3 screws.

























Barrel marked "Dikar Spain - 45 Cal". ser# 228XXX.



















Newly blued barrel
























Lock innards, shiney!

















Three coats of Tru-Oil for starters, natural wood, no stain.

















Range Time!



























IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed



Friday, December 16, 2016

Flinter 12ga

Dec/14/2016: 
Dec/19/2016:  Lock captive. Trigger Picture.  Happy Anniversary Dear Wife, 29 years!
Dec/20/2016:  Some stock shaping, etc.
Dec/21/2016:  Range Time.
Dec/22/2016:  Various Text Updates.
Dec/27/2017:  First coat of Tru-Oil
Jan/02/2017:  Lock Face
Jan/09/2017:  Here are all three flinters.



Flintlock in 12ga.
Or: 0.73 inch bore.

I started with a 19.5 inch long unchambered 12ga barrel from Numrich.  Belt sanded a portion of the muzzle to simulate an octagonal shape and to reduce weight.  Then draw filed those flats back a bit to the round area.

A short Cherry stock, it may get sent to the woodpile if there isn't enough barrel support and the drop is way too little to see down the barrel correctly.  Later on that one.

Flintlock will be the previous one assembled: Lock No 4




























Dec/19/2016

Lock is captive with a single 8-32 stove bolt and copper washer.
The rear of the barrel was notched to clear that lock screw.
Folded and soldered brass (to the barrel) for the front barrel pin.
Coat hanger wire used to pin the barrel, about 3/32 inch diameter.

I need to patch several areas that chipped out around the lock, etc. darned soft Cherry.
There will not be a butt plate.
Since there is not enough stock drop, the cheek area will be scooped.
Remember: This stock is real close to becoming firewood!
I may try a piece of Ash instead.











Single lock screw and copper washer.  Trigger pin is seen too.
Lots of wood to remove.
Trigger guard is next.










Up Close, 1/8 inch pin hole.























Dec/20/2016

Some stock shaping, trigger guard roughed out.  Ugly Stock.
Trigger guard is a full length hobby brass piece of 0.092 inches thick, 0.5 inches wide.
Held on with 4 each #6 0.5 inch long slotted steel screws of which one decided to snap off.










Top View.  Ugly Stock.
Barrel Plug is grade 5 bolt M20 x 2.5 in fairly tight.
Tang is attached with two each 8-32 black Allen screws, I don't have a welder anymore.
The fun part is tapping those two holes, scary.
No front bead sight as yet, someday.












Dec/21/2016

Range Time,  No pictures.
Was able to get 3 shots off as it started raining. ARGH!
I had forgotten my 12ga bag so improvised with rags and 3 each .490 RB's per shot with 60gr of Goex FFg.
The first shot was a dud as the three RB's fell to the ground about 15 feet away.
Out of the next two shots, two balls hit the 24 inch paper target at 25yds.
At least each shot fired.

I was just testing the functionality of this assemblage of parts to see if all of them worked together. :-)

I will probably jug choke this barrel using a brake hone.  Later on that one.




Dec/27/2017

First coat of Tru-Oil




















Jan/02/2017

Close up of lock face.
Knobby barrel pin, for quick removal.
I have a spare frizzen for this lock

Story:
Frizzen was purchased after the lock was almost done.  That frizzen wasn't the right dimensions for this lock so  the lock face was "modified" to make it work.  This will not happen again.

More:
When the barrel was breached and tested, there was some leakage past the plug threads.  These threads have now been filled with JB-Weld epoxy stuff.  The plug is now semi-permanent.



















Jan/09/2017

Here are all three flinters.

Low light android picture, not much picture quality.


























IdeZilla

Comments: Really Wanted



Tuesday, November 15, 2016

Flintlock Lock No 4

Updates:
Nov/16/2016:  Pan Added
Nov/17/2016:  Bridle Added.
Nov/18/2016:  Main Spring added.
Nov/19/2016:  Main Spring Installed, Hammer too.
Nov/22/2016:  Sear spring, etc.
Nov/23/2016:  Frizzen Spring, not pictured.
Nov/28/2016:  Half-Cock Notch, Top Jaw.
Dec/04/2016:   Frizzen.



I will start with this teaching in mind:
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=26825.0

And these images:

1: A general shape.
I like the pan and frizzen, etc.  Not so much on the hammer.














2: A composite shape.
This one I like a lot, especially the hammer.
The forward flat above the frizzen spring will be taller but I'll see as this goes along.














The plate (Right Hand) and the tumbler.  Red lines should be the main spring arc.
A note is that I am in no way as accomplished as these locks are but my attempt is for a functioning lock and all of the learning that this build will bring along.


















Nov/16/2016

Pan Added, soldered on, plumbers solder.
Frizzen area not finished.

Red marking pen for checking fit of tumbler.
















Nov/17/2016:

Bridle, 3 screws.  Needs trimming and "prettying".












Other side.

Story:
I was reducing the diameter of the bridle side of the tumbler only to discover (to my horror) that I was reducing the hammer end.  This tumbler is a new one.  Hammer side is 5/16 inch and the bridle side is 1/4 inch diameters.















Saw Blades for $1.00, local garage sale.




















I chose this one.  The flat edge is where I cut the material for the main spring.





















Nov/18/2016

Main Spring added.

Story:
Garage Sale here local, found a 2 inch pile of 6 and 8 inch table saw blades, mostly old.  Bought the pile for $1.00.  Cut a strip from one that looked good and made this spring.  At this stage it's 0.062 inches thick and 3/8 inches wide at the bend.  I may have to: Either move the spring down or Grind it narrower to clear any barrel.













Hammer, obviously not finished.























Nov/19/2016

Main spring in new lower hole, shortened the springs toe.
The bridle needs the standoffs for the two upper screws.

















Hammer with a new floor, partly brazed.
That coffin shaped floor mod will get redone to lower the angle of the jaw.
Hammer screw is 6-32 thread, a temporary screw.  Will be changing all screws for the correct lengths.



















Nov/22/2016

Sear spring added, at rest. A 4-40 screw holds it down, not visible here but it's under the bridle.
Added the bridle standoffs (spacers) under the two top bridle screws.

While bending the sear leg, it broke off.  Brazed it back together.

















Full Cock (only) for now and it works.

















Nov/28/2016

Half-Cock Notch.
Top Jaw.
Top jaw is a bit large.


















Ordered two frizzens from Old South Firearms.  Not in the mood to make frizzens from 1095 or old files as I don't have a forge or anvil as yet.






Dec/04/2016

Frizzen Added.
New old stock, from Old South Firearms.
























IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed