Internals from a H&A percussion lock; main spring, tumbler, sear, sear spring, screws, etc.
H&A plate will be put back into the bin.
Hammer/Cock is from a TC flintlock, old style.
Plate will be hand-made from 1/8 inch thick steel plate from the hardware store.
Frizzen from old style TC flintlock, relined, not shown.
Update 1: Aug/02/2016; All parts mounted (so far)
Update 2: Aug/04/2016; Top Jaw
Update 2: Aug/05/2016; Pan, Frizzen, Frizzen spring.
Update 2: Aug/06/2016;Clean Up, fix that frizzen!
Parts to make or purchase:
Upper cock piece.
Upper cock piece screw.
Pan.
Frizzen spring and screws.
Parts to work over:
Cock:
Needs the square hole moved or rotated, the lower jaw moved upwards (taller).
Most of the current parts
"New plate" holes marked. Tumbler hole is done. Plate outline is a bit larger, about 1/16 inch or so even though the pictures makes it look shorter, etc.
I realize that these parts are not very good but this lock making/creating is for teaching purposes.
There are three threaded holes for lock mounting, these will not be copied to the new plate. New locations will be made when the lock is to be installed.
Aug/02/2016 Update:
Mounted all internal parts.
The screws are 3mm x 0,5mm so a tap was purchased, the store did not have a #39 drill, so I used a #40.
I attempted to hot bend the cock but as you can see a crack appeared anyway. The lower jaw was tilted downward a tiny bit. It appears that the jaw screw may be 3/16 x 24 US, check that later. That jaw screw is either 3/16 x 24 or 12 x 24, both work.
The one allen screw replaces another screw, it holds the sear spring in place. The main spring pin is coat-hanger wire.
Now to find or make the pan, probably brass. Also the frizzen spring.
Aug/04/2016 Update:
Finished the upper jaw and fire-blued same.
Cheesy screw (that is all that the local Ace had), 12x24. Turned the head to a smaller diameter to fit, drill press + file.
Started a frizzen spring, it may be too weak, but we'll see later. This frizzen is one that was a bugger to harden so it was refaced with a piece of file. That file piece was removed and another attempt to harden that frizzen using a compound.
Now for the pan and bolster.
Aug/05/2016 Update:
Pan added, not the way I wanted but ugly and functional.
Not sure if this pan metal is brass or bronze. I purchased a large piece 3/16 inch thick for under $4, enough to make another pan.
Lock still needs a lot of finish work and detailing, but it seems to work.
Update 2: Aug/06/2016;Clean Up, fix that frizzen!
Frizzen: Did one more "Red Cherry" application then re-heated (from the back of the frizzen face) that frizzen to orange and did a water plunge. Finally, sparks, not a lot but enough.
Added pan piece, soldered with plumbers solder.
That frizzen spring broke itself into two pieces by lounging on the coffee table. A new one has been made.
Aug/24/2016
New frizzen spring made.
Tried to reline old frizzen with a section of old hand saw blade, riveted on, then full tempered not drawn back. Seemed to work OK with Arkansas chert (white). Did not try another type of flint. I will save this frizzen for "emergencies".
Fleabay frizzen showed up and was installed. That chert did not work too well. So I tried a dark colored French type flint, more sparks (whew).
Aug/25/2016
The removable pan seems to get forced up at the front due to frizzen spring pressure. My decision may be to permanently solder the pan to the backing plate. This probably will help in stopping the binding of the frizzen pivot screw, etc.
...
Done. Pan is now permanent.
Aug/31/2016:
If the flint is kept at or touching the frizzen (half-cock) then the lock sparks fine, main charge goes off everytime. When the flint wears down this lock tends to skip sparking. Checking that spacing every once in a while does help. The trigger pull is still quite stiff even though the fill-cock notch seems to be angled correctly. Maybe another trigger pinning location would help.
IdeZilla
Comments Welcomed.
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