Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Muley Side Lock

A Muley Side Lock, hand made.



Mule Lock with trigger attached.
Tails on the trigger and sear have no function, but are reserved for adding springs.
Hammer is left very rough until the lock is installed and the nipple position/distance is found.
Hammer pivot blocks are just soft-soldered for testing.  Will be riveted eventually.
Mounting plate is about 4 inches long and about 1-1/8 inches high.
Trigger pin and hammer pin both are 1/8 inch diameter.



Full-cock sear not pictured here (not made yet).
Trigger with black Sharpie to show wear point.















Shown with the half-cock/trigger in place as half-cock.












Ditto













Showing fired position, half-cock out of the way.












Full-cock sear in place.  Half-cock in position.
Trigger pin in the sear slot is brass 3/32 inch diameter.  It was time consuming to file out that slot.
The block above the trigger/sear tails is supposed to be for coil springs.
It will probably be removed (done).  For now it is a trigger/sear stop.












Full-cock, both in position












Fired Position, both out of the way.  Trigger pin pulls the sear back in tandem.














Trigger Springs Added.
May/05/2016.

Springs fit into split tails of each moveable piece.
A 4-40 screw holds the springs to the face plate.
Story: the 4-40 tap broke halfway through the screw hole.
This worked out OK as the screw is now stopped by the lack of threads.

Another hooked pin (nail) holds the spring tails in place.
A pin (nail) is now the trigger/sear stop.














Full-cock.
Note the riveted hammer pivot blocks.
Finishing nails, heads at this end, peened on the face side, #42 drill size.















Fired. (Bang)












Half-cock for capping













Face View.
Very crooked date stamping as a serial number, 05022016.












Hammer Spring added:
Big and ugly but it works great, maybe too strong.
Made from old hand saw blade.











Hammer spring held in place at the rear by an rectangled 8-32 round head black screw.
Peened at the backside.













May/09/2016

Started stocking a previously percussion .45 cal  H&A Spanish barrel into the Cherry stock.
Drilled the depth down the center line.
Carved some with a pocket knife.











Barrel laying in the partial inlet.
Old percussion tapped hole is 5/16 x 24 TPI (in inches).
Barrel filler is left over from being in a rifle.















May/10/2016

Started stocking the pile of parts.  Lots more to do here.
.45 cal H&A barrel. 11-1/2 inches long, cut from a partly ruined rifle barrel.









So far that is all of the parts.  Lock needs to go deeper as it is too far away.
Hammer gets bent up a bit.














May/12/2016

Lock in the general location but will be about 1/4 inch deeper.
Hammer shaped to hit the proposed nipple.
Nipple will be 5/16-24 thread, #11 cap, from TOTW.










Lock with reshaped trigger, offset to be about the center of the stock.
Trigger forward movement stop pin added, a finishing nail, soldered.
















May/13/2016, Friday and a half moon.

Started shaping the stock.  Removed about 1/4 inch from both sides except around the lock.
Lock has been inlet farther down into the stock.
Barrel needs a tang welded onto the plug.

A 5/16-24 nipple has been ordered from TOTW.
Good, because I did not want to shorten the barrel also make and fit a new plug just because the nipples I have are in 1/4-28.














May/14/2016

Removed more wood from each side.
More wood can be removed around the lock.
Ramrod?  Maybe.
Lock Mounted. 8-32 through bolt, #6 brass wood screw rear.
I will be filling in the trigger wood gap.










Brass trigger guard coming.
Temporary 8-32 lock bolt and brass washer.














May/18/2016

Hammer resting a new TOTW nipple (MRS-S) that came in today, 5/16-24 threads for a Springfield rifle, but works great here.
Fits right into the threaded hole that was there.














Barrel has a tang, barrel needs a tang screw and barrel lug.
Selection of sights has not been determined.












May/19/2016

I was going to take this pistol to the range today (May/20/2016)  but it got left at home accidentally.  :-(

Reduced the lock outline.
Re-curved the tang so that it lays down properly.
Added barrel front pin and tang screw.
A temporary nail headed pin, visible on this side.
Temporary until a piece of wire is found with the correct diameter.
Rounded the stock nose.











Lock bolt washer sunk into the stock.











Oblique view
Hammer reshaped.
One coat of low gloss tung-oil finish.












May/22/2016

Off to the range.

The main spring seems a slight bit weak.  If the cap was not fully down on the nipple, it would not shoot.
That spring will be stiffened, probably tonorrow.
Maybe add sights too.


May/23/2016
Cleaned up the tang a bit.
Flattened out the hammer spring and retempered it.  It should be much stronger for a while anyways.


May/25/2016

Added: trigger guard, trigger face, sights.

Trigger guard out of brass sheet.
Front sight soldered, folded brass, from 7.62x54 brass flattened.
Rear sight inlet into barrel then bent up and in.






Trigger face, brass sheet, soft-solder.
Guard screws will be replaced with slotted oval head brass.











Shooters View.


















June/03/2016
Range Report:

25 yds, 30gr of Goex FFFg, 0.490 hand cast RB, Ticking patch, spit lube.

Started with the first shot way down at about 5 o'clock.  After finding out where it shoots, slowly worked up to the middle XX hits.  I have moved the rear sight to hopefully center the hits as the front sight is soldered on and does not move.

It definitely needs a hammer or nipple cup because I received several cap fragment hits on my fingers, bloody.

Also I must mind my grip, choking up on the grip is not good as the recoil forces that hammer spring into my index finger.  I may modify the stock so that it isn't so smooth on the grip area.







June/14/2016
Added a Flash Cup to the Barrel.







































July/08/2016
Fake iron welded barrel patterning done with common yellow mustard.  Probably needs a couple more applications.



























































































July/24/2016
Slap-Dash Holster.








































IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed

Wednesday, April 27, 2016

One Revolver from Two

I had two revolvers, both not very useable.  The best parts were used to make one revolver.



Barrel and Cylinder are from a 1851 style Spesco .36 caliber brass frame, date code XXVI.   This barrel is clean with no rust or pitting in the bore.

This frame is a 1862 type steel frame, DGG (Armi San Paolo), date code [AF], with the rifle stock notches and screws.

I'll try to put up better pictures when it's sunny outside.

Here is the resulting revolver.




















The barrel would not move all of the way back to eliminate that massive cylinder gap.  A small amount of metal was removed from where the two pins align the barrel and frame.  The cylinder gap is now very small.

The wedge gap was moved forward in the barrel portion to accomodate the barrel setback.

The cylinder locks up very nicely and is much better than the original off-center fluted 1860 cylinder.





This particular cylinder has two sizes in its bores.  One half takes a .375 RB while the other half takes a .380 RB, not sure how that happened.  It was before my time, I'm sure.

Here is that cylinder with the (pictures) left side showing .375 RB and the right side showing .375 RB.  I have marked the three large bores with an "O", for quick reloading.

The cylinder does not have those safety pins between nipples for a safe position.

The barrel before the metal removal modification.












Current parts:














The left over parts:

Brasser frame has had a soldered on steel washer added to partly eliminate cylinder/brass-frame smashing.














All Parts:




















Results:


















Range Report:

Apr/29/2016:

During shooting, the existing barrel wedge loosened up enough so that I had to stop as the cylinder gap was too much.  Several times the loading lever would drop down further aggravating the shooter.

After cleaning said revolver, a new wedge was made.  Longer and wider.  Started with a piece of 2 inch web angle iron (steel).   For thinning, several hack-saw cuts were made then HF files went to work to smooth the wedge.

The barrel notch on the left side was moved forward.

Here for comparison are the two wedges.











Notice how beat up the one on the right is, the original one.  New one is on the left.  No spring or screw groove, yet.















New wedge installed.  Only thumb tight, no more.  No hammering here.











Top view of new wedge.  Plenty of length left for tightening said wedge. 
The portion sticking out of the right side can now be shortened, for looks only.  More gun blueing will be added as soon as the shooter can get to the appropriate store.



Holster:
http://idezilla.blogspot.com/2016/07/holster-for-that-spescodgg-revolver.html

IdeZilla

Comments Welcomed.